Hovigs on holy ground!

I realized that Musa, my divemaster, has his own mountain here on Sinai, Gebel Musa or Mt. Moses better known to us by the name of Mt. Sinai. This is where Moses got the Ten Commandments. Its a real hike. The peak is 1570 meters above sea level and preparations are needed. I brought the cheapest bottle of Egyptian brandy, a bottle of water, nuts, three bars of chocolate and an extra shirt.

We started in a group of ten, but the two Germans and a fit American ran away in front. I paired up with a nice Polish girl, and the rest fell behind. We started about 1.30 am, reached the top about 4.30 and then waited for about two hours to see the sun rise. It is cold on the top of a mountain, also in the Egyptian desert, rather freezing, but that only made the sun rise, if possible, even more fantastic.


On the way down I was in a hurry, so after the first rest I let the gravity and my weight do the job and was almost running down again. Why you might ask? Well I really wanted to see Saint Cathrine's monastery. Founded, in the 6th century, on the place where Moses spoke to the burning bush and probably the oldest building I have entered that still fulfills its original purpose. The burning bush is still there..... well I really don't buy that one, but still it seemed to touch both christians and muslims in a soft spot.


So 9 am I entered the chapel looking for this one icon that I know originated here, the Spiritual Ladder of Saint John of Sinai from the 12th century. I did not find it on the first try, so I went through again. Still no luck.... Then I realized there was a museum where they kept the real treasures. The church had no entrance fee, but the museum did -25 LE and it is worth every piaster. I did not have 25, I had a 200 and about 8.50 in change. The father collecting the fee could not change so he gave me a discount - a good man, but I would have paid a hundred to see the icon. While the chapel is packed by people the museum is not. They only let a few people in at the same time, so it is calm and quiet and the father takes his time to show you around and answering your every question, even helps taking pictures. So finally I could fin my icon! Well there was a lot of icons, really nice, I especially liked one called the Crucifixion and there was a lot of old scriptures, the oldest known versions of the four gospels, but I could not find the icon. So I turned to the father, who was taking pictures for a young couple, and asked where I could find it. It is in London! For two more months..... sadly. So I bought a post card! It gives me yet another reason to come back though!

I would recommend this trip to anyone doing the Sinai peninsula, but do it off season, it was already a bit crowded. Take your time, I did it in twelve hours and it is possible, but next time I will do in 36 hours or so. Most of all dress for cold weather! Bring a blanket and extra clothing, my t-shirt was dripping wet and it easy to catch a cold while waiting for the sun.

Most of my pictures was not that good, but I hope to get some from Elon, a dutchman, but I will put in two for now.

Dahab!

Leaving Sharm was not very hard. The second, and last evening I actually met some nice people, offcourse they are everywhere, just a bit harder to spot them in places like Sharm. James, an englishman, crazy old freak, but "one hell of a bloke". Plays the drums and his brother played in the Damned and Johnny Rottens band after the Sex Pistols, was it PIL? Anyway crazy old punks!


I went to Dahab by bus. Although every taxi driver I met said they could take me there for a good price. Only fifty times more than the bus ticket... hehe! They all know how to earn some money down here. The bus to Dahab costs 11 LE, wich is something like 1,5 euros or something. They ride went smoothly. I slept all the way, except when stopped on some amry checkpoint. They have been really strict after the bombings that happened in Sharm som time ago. In Dahab too actually.

So I am back at the right path, just where I belong. Dahab was basicly an old Beduin fishing village, that turned hippie in the 80's, and tried to turn into a tourist attraction after Israel invaded Sinai. Still its not that bad, yet. Some resorts are beeing built around the new centre, Dahab city, but I far away from all that.


I live in Sindbad Camp, a real backpackers place, and I realize, however worn out the term might be - that is what I am. The staff is as nice and friendly as anyone can be and took about 6 minutes to feel like one of the family. I think it is owned by a Dutchman. Tend to end up at a dutch place every time I find a laidback place -strange. They charge me 40 LE a night, but also have rooms to 25 LE, small but I am there for sleeping only. The camp is filled with people from all over and I have not met two persons here with the same nationality, except for the Egyptians.

In Dahab you can do two things. Either do nothing at all or go scuba diving, so this is how I will spend my time here. Offcourse you can also arrange all kinds of excursions and safaris, but we will see. I would like to get some people and rent a car on my own and go sightseeing, but nothing is certain. For now I will just relax!

Amar Sina, Sharm el Sheikh

The moon of Sinai, or Amar Sina. It is a hotel, built like an old Egyptian village, at least so I am told. It is nice, cheap(ish), and it is not packed.

I took a bus to the beach, Naama Bay. What can I say, it is hell on earth. Going down the stairs from the bus stop, makes you think of an old Attenborough documentary, when he is shooting a pack of sea lions, creeping up on some rock in the ocean to breed. I guess that some of the "fine ladies" here will even match their weight.


I have one more night booked in this place, then I hope to go further. I guess my next stop will be Dahab, where I hope to find a hostel, and some freaks. Freaks of own choice that is, the freaks of nature are all gathered here.

Should mention that I arrived at the airport and went looking for my "included transfer" to the hotel. They did not show up, and until I get a refund from the company, my advise is to stay clear of the hollidaynights.co.uk - it is a scam! At least they do not stick to the deal! I have mailed them now and hope to get an answer soon....

So how is Sharm El Sheikh?? Just as bad as you where told, to quote my good friend Brenners - "sounds like it is full of cunts who will rip you off and rob you. very touristy". Well Brendan.... guess wou hit the nail right on the head!

Last preparations...

It is now in the middle of the night, 6 hours and I will be on my way to the airport. Smoking fresh passport, 20 gb of mp3s, camera and the travel documents. Sadly no visa for Iran (the embassy did not accept that I had no fixed destination and I did not have the time to get a hotel booked), but I will try again in Ankara.

I travel light, one bag - ten kg. Clothing mostly, a sleeping bag and a smaller shoulder bag for books etc.

So what do I leave behind? Lets see, I had to dig my car out of the snow the last day, half a metre or so. Then the cold came, wich is actualy nice because at least it's not wet..... very wet.

What do I seek? Sun and a couple of dives in the Red sea, ancient culture, but most of all Iran. I will not give up before they stop me at the border, but I will admit it might be hard.

How do I get home? Well that is not excatly fixed yet.... in any way, but I am pretty sure that I will travel by train from Turkey, through eastern Europe, maybe Germany and Denmark or Sweden home. Even Russia/Finland has crossed my mind, but it is all in the future.

Next time: Egypt!

It's back.... -What's back?? ....IT!

Ok. I wil try it in English this time, so please correct me when I am wrong! The last time, I travelled central America, got to San Pedro la Laguna, got stuck as many before me. The blog kind of stopped on arrival.

This time I will start in Sharm el Sheikh, travel Jordan, Syria, Lebanon to Ankara in Turkey. In Ankara I will meet up with we an old friend. From there I hope to take a bus to Iran. Teheran, the ruins of Persepolis and as wikipedia told me: "the home to one of the world's oldest continuous major civilizations, with historical and urban settlements dating back to 4000 BC", and who could imagine -one of the worlds biggest alpine skiing resorts!

-MMmmmMMMMMmm, sounds like a lot of really old stone buldings to browse!

The plane leaves first Firday, arrives Egypt in the afternoon. Guess the next post will come around then. I have done one thing different this time. Last time I arrived Mexico with no bookings, plans or whatever. When my VISA card turned out not to work I had a problem. This time I booked to nights at a small hotel, with transfer from the aiport. Let us hope it runs smoothly:)